It’s not you, it’s me. Never has a phrase been so apt in regards to my feelings towards a place. I also think you can tell a lot about somewher by how the memory of it makes you feel, and my visceral reaction to Ao Nang is negative. Negative may be a slight overreaction, in the same way that when your favourite ice cream isn’t available and you’re stuck with a flavour that’s nice, but it’s not what you wanted.
During the build-up to this trip, I was pretty excited and impressed by the number of things and places to explore in the area. However, I must have forgone the actual research needed to get an accurate reading of the vibe. It wasn’t for me.
The purpose of this blog is to help anyone else who’s on the fence. Maybe I’ll push you towards Ao Nang and it’ll be a great fit, or perhaps you’ll land on the side I wish I had ended up on.
Why Many Travellers Love Ao Nang, Thailand
It’s a super convenient place to visit. Krabi Airport, while not right on its doorstep, is still within a short 45-minute Grab ride. Like many places in Thailand, there are endless cheap domestic flights, as well as a few international routes, including Dubai via Flydubai (also available under an Emirates flight code).
Once in Ao Nang, there are endless restaurant and bar options, plus a pretty fun food market next to the Muay Thai stadium. Watching the Muay Thai is a lot of fun—even if combat sports aren’t your thing, it’s still worth checking out. You have all the convenience of a tourist town: it’s very easy to arrange tours, rent a scooter, and there are plenty of decently priced, resort-style hotels. I stayed at the Sea Seeker Krabi Resort.
The main attraction is the beaches and the islands that are just a boat ride away. The most convenient trip to take is to Railay Island, which I’d say is one of the best bang-for-your-buck boat adventures you can have. Once you’ve bought your ticket at the Ao Nang Boat Service Co-operative, a converted truck picks you up and takes you to the beach where all the boats depart from.
It’s quite a scene—endless boats bobbing in the waves as tourists wade thigh-deep in the sea, looking for their numbered boat. If you’re an older traveller or a family looking for a bit of adventure (but without any real danger or discomfort), this experience is for you. The boat ride itself is very scenic and not too long.
You’re dropped off close enough to shore that you don’t need to swim but you still get wet again. Railay Beach has everything a beachgoer could want: a beautiful beach (although the noise of the boats is a bit off-putting for my sensitive ears), cafés and restaurants right on the sand, and the start of Railay Walking Street with more restaurants and shops. There are also a few different beaches to explore, as well as a lagoon, caves, and jungle trails.
It’s a fun place—but you’ll be sharing that fun with a lot of other people.
The highlight for me, and one of my favourite things I did during my entire time in Ao Nang, was climbing up to the East Railay Viewpoint. There’s a rope for part of the ascent, which is a very steep, rocky, and muddy climb. I’d say the climb is safe—but Asian safe, in the same way that walking straight into traffic to cross the road is safe.
I really enjoyed being at the top of the hill/cliff and having the view all to myself. It was incredible. After this mini hike, I joined my friends at Phra Nang Beach, which—even though it’s very popular—was big enough for everyone and didn’t feel overly crowded. For context, I visited in December.
Why Ao Nang, Thailand Wasn’t for Me
The popular existentialist Jean-Paul Sartre said, “Hell is other people.” He must have been trying to buy a toasted sandwich at a packed 7-Eleven in Ao Nang when he wrote that.
This is where my own failings as a human being come into play. I wanted relaxation, nature, and to embrace the calmness of the sea meeting the lush cliffs of Krabi. The Krabi region is beautiful. So you may ask: why go to a resort town with a lively strip?
Firstly, I’m an idiot. Secondly—and more importantly—I hadn’t been to the south of Thailand before, and the two main and popular options were either Krabi (Ao Nang) or Phuket.
My main issue with Ao Nang is the other tourists. This is possibly the worst argument for disliking a place, as it has no real relation to the place itself. Ao Nang and Krabi are beautiful and interesting, and this opinion doesn’t reflect on the locals at all. Anyone who’s been to Thailand knows how hospitable and friendly Thai people are.
But I’d argue that you can visit an equally amazing beach paradises in the south of Thailand without the crowds.
Koh Samet, in the north of Thailand, is more my speed. It’s much quieter, and the tourist demographic is different, which plays a big role in maintaining a relaxed, more refined vibe. That said, comparing Koh Samet and Ao Nang is like comparing apples with… well, apples that are in the north-east of Thailand.
For transparency, as my time in Ao Nang was coming to an end, I got food poisoning—for the first time ever while travelling. Luckily, this happened on the last night of my stay, so I didn’t miss out on too much that I wanted to see in Ao Nang and the wider Krabi area. It did, however, make the preceding three days far less enjoyable.
I also got very sick on a trip to Vietnam while in Hanoi about nine months earlier, and that experience has undoubtedly shaped my opinion of the city. I’ll try to separate those memories while forming a conclusion on Ao Nang, although I think the sound of me vomiting in the next room may live on forever in my friends’ memories.
Is Ao Nang, Thailand Worth Visiting? Final Thoughts
It’s kind of obvious, really. Ao Nang would be a great place if you want beach fun during the day and a bit of partying at night—although Phuket might be a better option for that. It’s also a convenient and easy place to bring kids.
If, like me, you value culture and authenticity more, then staying in Ao Nang itself may not be the best idea. The tourist infrastructure is very good, and if that brings money to local people, I’m genuinely happy for them. But the main strip through Ao Nang shouldn’t be the reason you visit Thailand.
We visited the island of Ko Hong, which has a nature trail. We took a boat later in the day, so we ended up staying on the island until the last boat back. During the final hour or so, I took a walk along the nature trail. Because it was later in the day, I didn’t see a single other person.
It was a really interesting walk, with a well-maintained path and lots of small information boards explaining the different species of plants and trees. It was a great opportunity to appreciate the biodiversity of the world, and I also spotted a few different birds I’d never seen before.
Unfortunately, as the walk continued, I came across more and more litter—mainly plastic bottles and plastic cups. There was so much that I couldn’t carry it all back to the main tourist area of the island where the bins are. It was really disheartening to think that someone would not only litter in a foreign country, but also in a national park of a foreign country. The lack of respect and selfishness is immense.
Another big bugbear of mine is the inappropriate shiftlessness of so many people. Do you really need to be topless in a 7-Eleven? Or walking around the streets at 11pm at night?
The problem with Ao Nang is that it’s an obvious choice—and unfortunately, obvious choices attract idiots. Not me, of course, for blindly going to Ao Nang, but the real idiots: people who don’t know how to conduct themselves properly. These are the people who will inevitably visit places like Ao Nang and Phuket.
Luckily, the more I travel, the more I understand myself and what I like. Next time, I’ll know to avoid the popular tourist hotspots and focus on the lesser-known places instead.
Ultimate Koh Samet Travel Guide
Is Koh Samet worth it?
Nestled in the Gulf of Thailand, Koh Samet is a small, beautiful island known for its golden beaches, clear waters, and laid-back atmosphere. Less than four hours from Bangkok, it's an ideal getaway for travelers seeking a quick escape to paradise. Whether you’re planning a romantic retreat, a beach holiday with friends, or a solo adventure, Koh Samet has something for everyone.
