If you’ve ever been to Split in summer, you’ll know that the main beaches like Bačvice and Firule can get busy. We’re talking “sardines on towels” levels of busy. So, if you’d rather swim somewhere that doesn’t feel like a music festival, head west to Marjan Forest Park (Park Šuma Marjan).
This pine-covered peninsula is easily the most beautiful part of Split. It’s where locals go when they want a bit of peace, shade, and clean water without tourists throwing frisbees over their heads.
Just a short walk,bus ride or cycle from the Old Town are some of the best beaches in Croatia. During my trip, I went there every day, renting bikes and cycling through the Forest Park to the beach was the highlight of Split for me.
All Photos taken on a Minolta Freedom Zoom Film Camera
Why Marjan Forest Park Has the Best Beaches in Split
t’s hard to believe you’re still in Split once you walk into Marjan. The traffic noise disappears, replaced by the sound of cicadas and waves. You’re surrounded by pine trees, rocky cliffs, and little coves where you can actually hear yourself think.
If, like me, you prefer a calm swim and a bit of shade over loud bars and overpriced cocktails, this is your spot.
Free Entry, Easy Access, and Proper Views
One of the best things about Marjan is that it’s completely free. You can walk, cycle, or take Bus 12, which stops right by Bene and Kašjuni beaches.
There are several ways to enter, depending on where you’re staying, from Meje, Spinut, or Zvončac.
The Top Beaches in Marjan Forest Park
Bene Beach – Shade, Serenity, and Local Charm
Bene Beach feels like it belongs in another time — quiet, shaded, and full of locals. The pine trees stretch right to the water, and there’s a small beach bar where you can grab a drink or coffee.
It’s rocky, yes, but calm and authentic. Bring water shoes, a towel, and a good book. If you’re not in the mood to walk, hop on Bus 12, which stops right there.
Kašjuni Beach – Split’s Most Scenic Spot
If you’ve seen photos of Split beaches on Instagram, chances are you’ve seen Kašjuni. It’s a wide, pebbly bay surrounded by pine forest and cliffs — basically a postcard.
There’s a proper beach bar and sunbeds if you fancy comfort, but even if you just find a patch of pebbles, you’ll be happy. It can get busy, so go early or late if you want a bit of peace.
Ježinac Beach – Close to the City but Peaceful
If you don’t want to venture too far from the centre, Ježinac is ideal. It’s walkable from the Riva or the Meje area and usually much quieter than Bačvice.
The water’s clear, there’s a café nearby, and it’s a great spot for an afternoon swim after exploring the city.
Kaštelet (Obojena Svjetlost) – Snorkelling and Sunsets
Kaštelet, also known as Obojena Svjetlost, is one of those beaches that surprises you. The water is a deep turquoise, perfect for snorkelling, and in the evenings it turns golden with the sunset.
It’s a bit rocky, so water shoes are a must, but the views more than make up for it. Great for photos — though let’s not pretend we’re here for the Instagram feed.
What to Bring
Water shoes – You’ll thank me later.
Plenty of water & snacks – Food options are limited once you’re in the park.
Sunscreen & hat – There’s shade, but the sun is still brutal.
Snorkel gear or goggles – The water visibility is unreal.
When to Visit
The best time is May to September, with June and early September being the sweet spot. You’ll get warm water and fewer crowds.
Try to go early in the morning or near sunset when the light hits the cliffs and the whole place looks like a film set.
Getting There
If you’re walking, head west from the Old Town, it’s about 20–30 minutes depending on your beach of choice. Cycling is a good option too, though the hills can be steep in parts.
Bus 12 goes from the centre to Bene Beach and stops at Kašjuni, making it the easiest option if you’re not up for a long walk in the heat
Marjan Forest Park is the part of Split that still feels real. It’s where the locals go to swim, run, and escape the madness of summer tourism.
You won’t find loud beach clubs or inflated drink prices here, just clear water, pine shade, and peace.
If you only have a few days in Split and want to see the coast at its best, skip Bačvice and head for Marjan.
